Friends in a foreign land

by Peter Woodward, 17 Feb 2009. Archived.

Friends in a foreign land

I love snow.  It was a childhood delight and still feels quite magical seeing everything transformed to glistening white. I choose to believe that back in the 60’s it snowed deep and crisp and even EVERY winter!  Typical therefore that I should find myself on holiday in Egypt applying sunscreen as the snowstorms hit Coventry.

It was my first time in Egypt and I was bowled over by the whole experience. Especially so the richness of culture represented through the Pharonic dynasty, still being discovered in the desert sands across the land.

Egypt is a bustling country of huge contrasts; wealth and poverty, beauty and squalor, calm and clamour.  Its culture is so different to our own.  Every service rendered, whether sought or imposed comes at a cash price with the seemingly compulsory ‘baksheesh’. For those of us of a genteel British fixed-price mentality, this comes as quite a culture shock.  It’s strange to find oneself avoiding, resisting or refusing simple offers of help to avoid a draining haggle.  It’s also so easy to forget in these encounters that so many people are living at the margins of life.  For many, flogging plastic pyramid key rings to tourists is the only way to pay for basic essentials, like food.

One afternoon in Aswan, a small group of us escaped the reassuring embrace of our guide.  We decided to hire a boat for the short journey up the River Nile to view the new Coptic Cathedral.  The simplicity of the request turned into a grinding and acrimonious negotiation.  We finally set out clutching that nagging doubt as to whether the price we thought we had agreed matched the interpretation of our boatman.  Of course it didn’t.  So followed the dilemma - stick to our guns and receive a thousand curses, or cave in, pay up and join the ranks of tourist victims.  We chose the former and leapt off the boat followed by a tirade of invective.  We all felt just a bit diminished by the experience.

As we entered the compound of the Cathedral we were greeted by a smiling guide who offered to show us round.  Our first reaction was one of great caution.  What were we letting ourselves in for now?  Interesting how you can so rapidly build up a resistance to any human overture.   But we need not have feared.  This was a genuine oasis of warmth, hospitality and generosity far from the ‘real’ Egypt outside the gates.

We chatted to Manal Sobhy, our volunteer guide and soon realised that both our Cathedrals were dedicated to St Michael and that our shared Christian roots transcended any differences of tradition. 

Manal spoke with pride and insight about the Coptic tradition founded by St Mark.  She showed us the vast white interior, the beautifully carved pews, simple symbolism at every turn.  She then sprang a surprise by asking me to sing something as I would in my Cathedral.  I’m quite sure the second largest cathedral in Egypt with a capacity of over 3,000 people had never heard the words of the 121^st Psalm to the chant Walford Davies echoing around its vaults.

“I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills,

From whence cometh my help.

My help cometh even from the Lord,

Who hath made Heaven and earth.

It was an uplifting encounter that will live long in our memories transcending our boat encounter. 

Beyond the trip I still recall the open smile, warm welcome and unconditional hospitality we received from Manal at the Mickel Cathedral – an instant Friend!  It is as vivid to me as the pyramids, temples, treasures of Tutankhamen put together.

Back home in the slush, exciting plans are being developed to improve our own Cathedral as an attraction to visitor pilgrims from across the world as part of the 2012 Jubilee Appeal.  This is such an important ministry.  It will be even more crucial to have people with the knowledge and heart for this place to offer a human interpretation that no signs, videos and turnstiles can offer. 

I hope that as membership of the Friends grows we can nurture more volunteers to offer their time in welcoming visitors and providing a memorable experience, a spiritual oasis in an urban desert, just as Manal did.